Gator, Nuthin and Merci at Tilicho Lake
To those who are intrigued by mountains the Himalayas are the holy grail. To walk on them is the experience of a lifetime. The Annapurna Circuit is one of the most accessible long-distance treks in Nepal that can be done without a guide. The trail consists of towering snow caped mountains, colorful prayer flags, and Buddhist Temples. It also boasts Thorong La Pass at 17,769ft (5,416m). It is one of the world’s most celebrated walking paths for a reason. Nuthin and I hiked the circuit in 2018. Here are a few tips for those interested in the adventure.
First things first, what time of the year is best to go? There are two seasons each year for trekking in Nepal. The early season is March through April and the late season is October through November. If you go before March you will be in monsoon season. There will be lots of rain and cloud cover, none of which is good for viewing the Himalayas. After November you risk getting caught in winter storms. Of course, these are just guidelines. Weather in high altitudes is unpredictable and you should bring appropriate gear for all weather conditions. Read more about what kind of gear to bring in our article Trekking the Annapurna Circuit: Packing List.
By law there is no need to hire a guide to trek the Annapurna Circuit. This makes it one of the most affordable long-distance treks in Nepal. If you choose not to plan your trip through a trekking agency, you will need to obtain three types of permits before you begin your trek. The first is a Tourist Entry Visa, which is paid for at the airport before you enter Kathmandu. You can obtain a visa for 15 days, 30 days or 90 days for the cost of $25, $40, or $100 respectively. There is no credit card machine at the airport so bring cash. Most major currencies are accepted but the Nepali rupee strangely is not. The second is an entry permit from the National Trust for Nature Conservation. The cost for this permit is 3000 NPR. For more information on the nature conservation entry permit visit their website. The third is a Trekkers Information Management Systems Card (TIMS) registration card. The cost for the registration card is 2000 NPR. For more information on the TIMS registration card visit their website. It is important to bring 2 passport sized pictures for these permits as it is difficult to find a place that will develop them in Nepal. When you arrive, you can obtain both permits at one of the Nepal Tourism Board offices located in Kathmandu or Pokhara.
Manang, Nepal
With the continuous construction of new roads, there is an ever-increasing variety of choices when you plan your itinerary. This makes the Annapurna Circuit easily adaptable to your time restraints. There are choices that span from 4 days to 20 days and everything in between. There are also side trails to be explored. The two most popular are Tilicho Lake and Ice Lake. The Tilicho Lake side trail adds 3 days onto the trek. This was my favorite section of the circuit. It is the highest alpine lake of its size in the world and the glaciers surrounding it are breathtaking. Ice Lake is a strenuous day hike that can be accessed from Braga or Manang. Both trails are used to acclimate to the altitude as they gain around 3,600ft (1,100m) in 6 miles (9.60km). For those adventurers who want to wing it, there are small villages with food, water, and accommodations conveniently placed around three miles apart throughout the circuit. This makes it easy for those who don’t want to plan a rigid schedule.
Having access to safe food and water can make the difference between a great trip and a bad one. Never drink from a natural water source or from the tap unless you use a filter, chlorine tablets, or a SteriPen. There are distilled safe drinking water stations placed throughout the trek to fill empty water bottles. They are located in larger villages like Chame, Shree Kharka, and Manang. Although it should be a last resort, bottled water can be found in most villages for 50-200 NPR. At high altitudes, it is recommended that you drink a minimum of 3 liters a day. Food poisoning is common on the circuit. Most guides I talked to along the trail warned against eating meat. Although most tea houses had a full menu we took the advice of the guides and stuck to vegetarian dishes with the occasional chicken noodle soup. This formula worked well for us.
Gator giving Merci a break from walking
Altitude sickness is a serious concern on the Annapurna Circuit. Contrary to popular belief, being in good shape does not decrease the risk. Thirty percent of all people who attempt Thorong La Pass experience some form of altitude sickness. It should be taken seriously. There are two ways to combat it. The first seems simple, slow down. At the top of the pass, there is roughly 50% less oxygen which means you should be moving 50% slower. The other is an over the counter medication that you can get in Nepal called Diamox. It is relatively safe and inexpensive. Diamox increases your breathing rate to help alleviate symptoms. In Manang, there is a class at 3 PM given in English by doctors on the dangers and prevention of altitude sickness. It is extremely informative and I would not ascend higher without attending.
Now to answer the most important question. How much does this all cost? We chose to book our 16-day trip through a trekking agency after arriving in Nepal. The prices we found on the internet before leaving were roughly 5 times higher than we were quoted in Kathmandu. We brought our dog Merci along for the trek and heavy camera equipment so we chose to hire a porter and a guide. We also chose not to travel in a group in order to have enough time to take pictures and take care of our dog Merci. For 100,000 NPR ($890) per person, the trekking agency included all meals, accommodations, permits, and transportation. The only cost that wasn’t included were beverages.
I found that the price for everything increased with altitude. Private rooms with a shared bathroom averaged from 150-1000 NPR per night. Dormitory style accommodations were also available for 100-400 NPR. If you choose not to eat dinner and lunch at the tea house the price doubled in most places. Dal Bhat was usually the most expensive meal on the menu because it is all you can eat. The price ranged from 200-600 NPR. Cheaper meals like vegetable fried rice and chow mien were available for 150-450 NPR. There were usually multiple teas and coffee to choose from ranging from 30-150 NPR a cup. I recommend going with the tea as all coffee was terrible tasting freeze-dried powder.
Planning a trek to the Himalayas can seem intimidating. We spent two months in Nepal and had no itinerary when we arrived. There were a few bumps along the way but we learned so much. The scenery is spectacular, the food is fascinating, and the culture is rich. Don’t let a few butterflies in your stomach prevent you from discovering this mystic land and more importantly yourself.
