Backpacking the Haute Route: Day 13 – St Niklaus to Europahut

by Gator | Sep 4, 2018

Today was going to be the toughest day yet on the Haute Route and also the most dangerous. We were to start a portion of the trail called the Europaweg. The guidebook warned that if you were not completely surefooted that you should not attempt this part of the trail. The book also warned of several rock falls and narrow trails next to steep cliffs. Excited and a little nervous we boarded the bus for a short ride to Gasenriend, where we would begin our hike for the day.

The trail wasted no time gaining altitude. This was the steepest grade we had seen yet. Out of breath, we trudged through switchback after switchback for two hours. Finally, getting above the tree-line we could see beautiful views of the Bernese Alps and white glaciers, that appeared to be flowing down the mountain. After another short climb, we reached the statue of St Bernard which marks the starting point of the Europaweg. St Bernard is the patron saint of mountain travels and spent his life helping alpine pilgrims in trouble. He passed away in the 1080s. The statue is pointing out as if to warn you to go back. With butterflies in our stomach, we started the Europaweg.

Statue of St Bernard on the Grat

The first of many challenges was a portion of the trail that had been covered with massive boulders. The only way across was to hop from one to another balancing on each one, all while gaining altitude. This lasted for about 30 minutes. The rocks led to a trail again which was narrow with a sheer cliff on the right side. There was such a danger of falling that ropes were attached to the left side. I paused for a moment to give Nuthin a pep talk and to strap on the GoPro.

We grabbed the rope and began sliding our feet along the cliff watching the gravel we kicked off tumble below us. After just a few feet on to the cliff, we heard a loud crash. There was a rockfall over the trail just a few hundred feet from where we were. This was the first time on the Haute Route I had considered turning back. I paused a minute to assess the situation, noticing that where the rocks had fallen there was a good trail. We decided to get to where the rockfall was and make a run for it to decrease our exposure time. We counted to three and off we went. Making it to the other side safely, we both let out a loud breath. We had made it across the dangerous rockfall of the Europaweg. While still celebrating we turned the next corner to see a rockfall sign. Nervous, that the dangerous part was still to come, we continued on. Lucky for us, we didn’t see any more rocks fall.

Falling rocks weren’t the only dangers for the day. There were portions of the trail that had washed away leaving only sheer cliffs. Boards and handrails were put up to help cross. There were also whitewater streams to wade through, created by melting glaciers. On our nine-hour hike, there was no leisurely walking, we had to be alert every second. When we arrived at the Europahut we were exhausted. This was the most technical day of hiking that I’ve ever experienced.

Gator crossing boards where there is no trail on the Europaweg

Nuthin crossing a glacial whitewater stream

Nuthin checked us in, and to our surprise, we were rooming with Jeremy and Anne. After taking a shower, we joined them for a beer and then dinner. We sat at a communal table of about eight hikers that represented four different countries. We all sat laughing and trading hiking stories. It is exciting to talk to so many people with different nationalities that have the same passion that you do. After dinner, we went straight to bed. Tomorrow would be the last day of hiking on the Haute Route.