Backpacking the Haute Route: Day 4 – Champex to Verbier

by Gator | Aug 8, 2018

Today’s hike was supposed to be easy. Only an estimated four hours and most of the terrain was downhill. This was a relief because our bodies were still getting used to walking so many miles a day. We needed the rest.

As we left the hotel we descended a few steep switchbacks through the woods and into rolling pastures. With no trees to block our view, we could see the small towns in the valley below. On the other side of the valley, steep mountainsides were covered with a network of intricate terracing for vineyards. We descended further into a series of tiny farm communities. All of the buildings in the communities were made of stone and rough-cut timber. Observing the simplicity of their lifestyle, was like stepping back in time 100 years. The trail sometimes would bring us through people’s backyards and driveways. This made me nervous because in the United States, this would be obviously considered rude. The locals didn’t seem to mind.

View descending from Champex

Small alley in La Garde

We continued on to a larger village of Sembrancher where the dirt trail joined a road. We stopped for a moment to get a snack and admire the cobblestone streets and baskets of flowers hanging from the windows.

Water fountain in Sembrancher

Nuthin took out the guidebook for direction. Unable to find the road the trail was supposed to follow, we crisscrossed through town for about an hour searching. We followed the only hiking sign we could find. It was a straight steep path up the mountain to the next village. Tired and out of breath, we followed the next trail sign. It led to a path switchbacking down the mountain and back to where we began.

Lost for three hours now, we decided to take out the guidebook and figure out what road lead into Le Chable and walk along the road. Le Chable is where we were supposed to catch a cable car ride to our final destination Verbier. Once we made it into Le Chable, we didn’t explore much because we were tired and frustrated. We hopped on the cable car for a quick ride over the mountain and checked into our hotel. Not wanting to walk much further, we found the closest restaurant to our hotel that was open. It was an Italian restaurant. I ordered spaghetti with Bolognese and Nuthin got lasagna. This was the first one-course meal we had eaten since we stepped off the plane in Geneva.

Once the meal was done, the waitress picked up our plates, asked if we wanted anything else. We said no – wrong move. Anxiously waiting for the check, we noticed the waitress seemed to be ignoring us other than the occasional smile. After thirty minutes, the smiles turned to laughter. There seemed to be some sort of misunderstanding so after forty-five minutes, I asked for the check. She brought it quickly. We laughed realizing there was a cultural difference. When we got back to the hotel with Wi-Fi, I Googled why it took so long to get the check and found that it was considered rude and pushy to bring the check without being asked. Next time, we’ll be ready!

Previous Post:

Backpacking the Haute Route: Day 3 – Trient to Champex

Next Post:

Backpacking the Haute Route: Day 5 – Verbier to Cabane de Louvie