Backpacking the Haute Route: Day 2 – Chamonix to Trient

by | Aug 4, 2018

With our trusty guidebook in hand, we boarded the bus in Chamonix, France for our first day of hiking. The doors of the bus opened in Argentière, we stepped off and our adventure began. To find the trail the guidebook gave directions from the center of town – we had no idea where that was. It also mentioned we were supposed to pass a post office and office of tourism, of which we could only find one. We found what we thought was the trail. The guidebook said to go forward but the only options were left and right. After an hour of walking in circles, we finally asked a local. He pointed us in the right direction, we took a deep breath, and our first uphill climb started.

As the trail winded up into the woods, we began to contemplate whether we should have brought less camera equipment. Exhausted, we stopped to catch our breath and a man who appeared to be in his eighties whizzed right on past us with ease. So, there we were, lost all morning, out of breath and being outrun by an eighty-year-old man. Determined, we stayed the course and continued on to the next small town.

Le Tour is a sleepy town with only two restaurants and a ski lift. Each house was well-kept and had a vibrant vegetable garden. The trail went through the center of town and winded steeply up the hill following the ski lift. When we got to the top of the ski lift, the halfway point of our climb up, we stopped to eat lunch. We had a baguette with local cheeses and cured meats. So European of us, right?

Mount Blanc towering over Chamonix in the valley

After lunch we continued to the high point of our climb for the day, the Col de Balme at 7,172 feet. At the top, is the border between Switzerland and France. There is also a small hut called Chalet-Refuge Col de Balme where you can buy refreshments. We paused for a while to enjoy the beautiful view and forgot all about the negative feelings from earlier that morning.

Chalet-Refuge Col de Balme

We started our descent down to Trient, another small village where the church and two hotels were the centers of activity. When we arrived to check-in at Hotel la Grande Ourse the hostess seemed annoyed that we still had our shoes on. She asked us to go outside, around the building and down the stairs to the basement to take our shoes off. We put on a complementary pair of Crocs wondering if they had ever been cleaned. We later found out this was customary not to wear hiking shoes into any of the huts. Once we were checked in, we were impressed by the cleanliness of the hotel and were glad to have our Crocs. We took a shower and began doing laundry outside in a ceramic container made to look like a hollowed-out tree stump.

Church in Trient

Doing laundry in Trient

After hanging our clothes outside to dry, it was dinnertime. We were expecting a self-serve dinner of low quality but high calorie food. It was a surprise when the first course was a beautifully seasoned chicken and potato soup with homemade bread. The next course was chicken curry with rice followed by a dessert of custard with a berry sauce. It was served with machine like precision. We were in hiker heaven!

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