Backpacking the Haute Route: Day 7 – Prafleuri to Arolla

by Nuthin | Aug 14, 2018

We scheduled an early morning breakfast, eager to get out on the trail. It was a cloudy morning, but today’s hike was supposed to be adventurous – walking over glaciers and climbing ladders over a mountain pass. The trail quickly lead us over the steep Col de Roux. Descending down rolling pastures, we came across grazing ibexes. There were no other hikers around, so we took out the camera to capture them. The male with large horns didn’t pay us any mind as Gator followed closely behind snapping pictures.

Large male ibex by lake, captured by Gator

It was a pleasant walk along the dirt road next to the lake. We saw baby marmots playing in the rocks below. It started to rain, so we put the on our soft-shell jackets, and continue on. The trail lead to a cabin in the middle of a rocky valley. Once we made it to the cabin, there was no clear trail, so we decided to inquire where to go. An employee at the cabin told us there was no direct path. The glacier drags tons of rock down from the mountain each year and the landscape was always changing. He pointed in the general direction and showed us the pass we needed to get over. The rain had finally subsided, and we could tell we were in the midst of magnificent mountains, but could only see the rocky terrain ahead.

Marmot playing by Lac des Dix

From the cabin was a descent straight down the massive boulders. Unsure of our path, Gator took a moment to scout out the safest route down and I followed his lead. We slowly made our way down the rough terrain, placing every step with care. Some of the boulders moved as we walked, and we realized we were walking on top of a glacier. There was a crevasse that had a layer of snow on top. Gator kicked a rock down into it, and we never heard it hit the bottom. There was a series of orange spray painted rocks, which we assumed was marking the easiest route to the pass. The markers lead to a glacial river of rushing blue water with no way to get across. We started walking uphill to find a safe place to cross where it was narrower.

Gator found a boulder placed in the middle of the torrential water, in a spot that seemed passable. He went first, and stepped into the water, using the boulder to secure his foot from slipping on the icy surface. He grabbed the bank and pulled himself up. I tossed him my trekking poles as he gave me words of encouragement. I stepped into the icy water in front of the boulder and he grabbed my hand to help me up. Once we made it across the glacier, we continued towards the pass.

Glacial river we had to cross on Glacier de Chelion

There were two Englishmen who were ahead of us, and could not find the trail so decided to scale up the mountain to the ladders. After struggling, they finally made it up. When we got closer, they yelled down to us, “Don’t come up this way, it’s too dangerous!” Unsure of how to get over the pass, we stopped to catch our breath and eat lunch, as it was already 2 pm.

The way up was a climb over loose gravel and moving rocks. It was so steep that the people who were above us were kicking down rocks on us as they went. Gator lead the way up the dangerous scramble to the next safest patch of boulders. I started to climb on hands and knees, clutching to rocks as I went. I lost my footing and started to slide down. I grasped onto the closest rock, which also started to move with me. Finding a sturdy rock to hold, I paused. Tears started welling up in my eyes. I took a moment to breathe and made it to where Gator was on the rocks.

Embarrassed, I turned my gaze away to try to gain my composure. I could feel my chest tightening, and it started to get difficult to breath. I pulled out my emergency inhaler and took a puff. Gator sat calmly, telling the other hikers it was okay to pass us. He knows that I hate the added pressure of having others behind me when I am scared. I took another puff and was able to finally catch a deep breath. We continued on.

We finally made it to a trail along a narrow cliff ledge. Metal chains were bolted into the side of the mountain for a handrail. The ledge lead us around a corner to a series of three ladders and platforms. Gator went first. We are both afraid of heights, so this was the scariest part of the Haute Route this far. He told me, “Focus on each step, and don’t look down.” Step right, step left, step right, step left… I told myself. Paying close attention to the movement of my feet trying not to make a mistake. Feeling lucky to be alive, we made it to the top!

We didn’t pause to take pictures because it was overcast. Tired and hungry, we decided to make a quick descent. The trail went roughly down along a series of rocky switchbacks when we came to a dirt road. After checking the guidebook, we decided to take the dirt road down into Arolla. It would be easier on our knees which were aching from the hard days climb.

We made it to Hotel du Glacier for the evening. Dinner was at 7 pm, and we were excited at the prospect of three courses. There was an appetizer of onion rings, and the first course was prosciutto with melons. The second course was braised duck, homemade pasta, and cauliflower au gratin. Dessert was a chocolate brownie with homemade vanilla ice cream and unsweetened whipped cream. Happy and full, we retired for the evening.

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Backpacking the Haute Route: Day 6 – Louvie to Cabane de Prafleuri

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Backpacking the Haute Route: Day 8 – Arolla to Les Haudères